travel

Dubrovnik for beginners. / Dubrovnik algajatele.

Dubrovnik, the beautiful seaside city in Croatia, came to my life by pure chance.

We were looking for a last minute holiday. The first choice was Italy, but the plane tickets were quite expensive at the moment.

When someone suggested Dubrovnik I was really reluctant at first. They said that it’s a little bit like Italy…

After having seen a photo with seaview and palm trees I was sold.



I fell in love with the place from the moment we landed. 



End of October is an absolutely lovely time to be here. The weather can be unpredictable, that’s true.

It might rain heavily or the freezing bura might blow. But it’s more likely that the weather is nice and sunny with the temperature about 20 C or more. Feels much warmer, though.

The water is about 21 C which is absolutely OK for swimming for someone from Estonia. (Some of the summers our water doesn’t even get this warm in Estonia…)

Actually there are a lot of private spots along the coastline where you can take a swim. Really cool places!

End of October is also close to the end of the tourist season. It’s pretty quiet, relaxed and even private. In summer it will be very crowded and also too hot for me. I guess I’d have a very different experience then. 

Dubrovnik is well known for its picturesque Old Town, but it’s packed with people even in October. I can’t even imagine summer time! It’s beautiful but far from being the main attraction for me! I prefer other parts of the city.

The first time here we happened to rent an apartment near the Lapad beach and found it absolutely perfect. Far from the madding crowd, cheaper. A foodstore, coffee shops, bus stop and walking area around the corner. What’s not to like!

The Lapad beach is almost empty at the end of October so it’s nice and relaxed to take a swim or enjoy the view. You can take endless walks along the seashore. One breathtaking view after another. Especially at sunset, around 6 p.m.





I love the tweeting of little birds and the sweet smell of some kind of flowers that accompany the walks here. I actually haven’t been able to spot what are the flowers that smell so good. These on the photos look lovely, too.




I quickly found my favorite ice cream stand Slatki Kutak. Yoghurt ice cream is my beloved and costs 8 kuna (a little more than 1 euro). I usually have it three times a day… A lot of places sell gelato style ice cream here.

The coffee is excellent almost everywhere and it is sold everywhere. Cappuccino prices range from 10-14 kunas (about 1,5 euros). It is a little bit more expensive in fancy restaurants and in the Old Town cappuccino cost 30 kunas!  So you see why I like the area where we are staying.





There are two good value to money places I would recommend in the Lapad area in Dubrovnik: Pizzeria Scala and the Caffe Pizzeria Blue Planet. 

At Scala a big Margarita pizza costs 49 kunas, pricier meals are 60-80 kunas. Big sandwich with two chicken fillets 25 kunas. They have got seafood and Mexican dishes, too.

The Blue Planet offers a jumbo cheese pizza for 55 kunas. It’s huge! And tastes good! Cappuccino for 10 kunas was also perfect.

My ideal holiday consists of walking, swimming and having a cup of coffee in a nice place. Lapad Beach area has got all that. By the way, there’s also decafe coffee available everywhere.

You can walk to the port, to the local market or even to the Old Town (3,5 km). 




The bus tickets cost 15 kunas from the bus and 12 kunas if purchased in the kiosk. It’s valid for an hour’s ride.

This time we have an apartment with an amazing view on top of the mountain in Babin Kuk area which is also very close to the Lapad beach. 

So it’s nice to take a siesta and sit on the terrace enjoying the blue sea view and the mountains.


It comes at the cost of 370 steps that we have to take every time we go up or down… But the view is worth it!

I would not like to be in a hotel instead. The apartment offers much more privacy and a bigger space.

As for the basics, the supermarket here, Tommy’s, has a good variety of food and essentials. Don’t miss the chocolate croissants at the bakery – about 8 kunas (a little over 1 euro) a piece they are all I need for breakfast. (Unless I decide to have ice cream for breakfast…)

I dare say that Dubrovnik has something for every kind of budget.

If you’re budget is moderate just look around the corner from the main tourist spots. It’s the same as everywhere.

I like it that people here are friendly but everyone pretty much minds their own business. 

Lord Byron had said that Dubrovnik is the pearl in the Adriatic. I also read that a lot of famous people just love the place. Beyonce and Jay Z, Jon Bon Jovi, Bernie Ecclestone, Girorgio Armani and endless other stars have been spotted here.

Well, now I am ashamed to say that I hesitated to come here!

Our next plan is to have a half a day picnic on a stretch of rocks by the sea. Just listening to the waves and chilling out… Heaven is a place on earth….





Dubrovnik sattus minu ellu juhuslikult (nagu enamik häid asju elus).
Viimase hetke puhkuseplaane tehes oli unistus minna Itaaliasse, kuid lennupiletid olid üsna kallid. Soovitus Dubrovnikusse lennata pani mind kõigepealt nina kirtsutama. Endised idabloki maad ei ole just minu puhkusesihtkohtade nimekirjas. Suures osas muidugi asjatult, ma tean.
Toksisin Google’i otsingusse “Dubrovnik” ning nähes pilte merevaate ja palmidega, oli otsus tehtud.
Juba lennukist maha tulles sain aru, et mu süda jääb Dubrovnikusse.
Oktoobri lõpp on siin veel meeldivalt soe. Ilm on küll ettearvamatu, nii et võib tulla ka paduvihma või puhuda kõle bura. 

Pigem on aga 20 kraadi ringis sooja ja päike särab. Vesi on niikuinii 21 kraadi, mis peaks eestlase jaoks väga sobiv ujumistemperatuur olema.
Julgen öelda, et Dubrovnikus on midagi iga reisieelarve jaoks. Siin on palju kauneid külaliskortereid, kus saab ise süüa teha. Toidupoes on hinnad umbes samad, mis Eestis.

Ka väljas söömiseks on piisavalt eri hindadega kohti. Peamine reegel on ikka see, et tuleb otsestest turistilõksudest eemale hoida ja kõrvaltänavasse vaadata.
Dubrovniku peamiseks vaatamisväärsuseks peetakse vanalinna. See on tõepoolest uhke, kuid isegi oktoobri lõpus on seal meeletult rahvast. Ma ei kujuta ette, mis seal suvel toimub! 

Ka hinnad on vastavad. Straduni (vanalinna peatänav) kandis maksis cappucino 30 kuna (üle 4 euro). 
Minu pärast võib vanalinn teistele jääda. Esimesel korral sattusime ööbima Lapadi ranna piirkonda ja teisel korral valisime juba teadlikult rannalähedase Babin Kuki piirkonna.
Odavam, privaatsem, imeilus. Vanalinna saab bussiga ja sõit kestsb u 15 minutit. Pilet maksab bussist ostes 15 kuna ja eelmüügist 12 kuna. Pilet kehtib tund aega. Võib ka vanalinna jalutada. Mööda rannikut on sinna 3,5 km.
Lapadi rand on väike, aga mõnus. Suvel ma siia ei tuleks : liiga palju turiste ja minu jaoks liiga palav. Hindadest rääkimata. 
Oktoobri lõpus saab siin end vabalt ja rahulikult tunda. Piki randa vōib tundide kaupa jalutada. Eriti võrratud on mere kaldal muidugi päikeseloojangud. 
Kiirelt leidsin siin oma lemmiku jäätisekioski Slatki Kutak. Korralik tuutu jäätist maksab 8 kuna (natuke üle euro). Mitmed kohad müüvad gelato stiilis jäätist.

Kohvisõbra jaoks on siin paradiis. Head kohvi müüakse igal pool. Ka kofeiinivaba. Cappuccino hinnad on 10-14 kuna. Super!

Lapadi ranna kandis on mõistliku hinnaga normaalset toitu lihtne leida. Näiteks Pizzeria Scala ja Caffe and Pizzeria Blue Planet.

Blue Planeti suur pitsa oli tõesti megasuur ja hinnaks 55 kuna (u 8 eurot). Cappuccino maksis 10 kuna ja oli väga meeldiv.

Scala pakub lisaks ka mereande (alates 45 kuna) ja mehhiko toitu (60-80 kuna). Söögid ei saa just ülikõrgeid hindeid, aga kurta ka ei tasu. Uhkemates kohtades on hinnad 2-3 korda kallimad.

Valgete laudlinadega peenemaid kohti leiab ilmselt lihtsamalt üles. Eriline on see, et paljud asuvad imeilusa merevaatega kohas.

Ka meie rõdult kõrgel mäe otsas avaneb imeilus vaade, nii et polegi tarvis kaugele minna. Iga allaminek või ülestulek tähendab küll 370 trepiastet, kuid vaade ja vaikus on seda väärt.

Kuuldavasti armastavad Dubrovnikut paljud superstaarid. Beyonce ja Jay Z, Jon Bon Jovi, Giorgio Armani, Bernie Ecclestone… kui nimetada vaid mõnesid.

Lord Byron nimetas Dubrovnikut Aadria mere pärliks. Ma ei julge enam tunnistadagi, et kõhklesin siia tulemast…

Oktoobrilõpu soojus, rahu ja vaikus, võimalus lõputult jalutada, imelised vaated, ujumine, lai valik toitu, suurepärane kohvi – need on asjad, mille pärast mina Dubrovnikut armastan.

Nüüd on veel plaanis väike piknik kaljunukil mere kaldal… Taevas on tõepoolest maa peale kolinud…

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